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Underground cooling tubes - Page 3

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Posted by M Russon on July 26, 2005, 12:15 pm
 



I thought the same thing since domestic water is usually chlorinated,
and would retard the growth of little nasties inside an air tube.

The inspectors here would throw up a red flag so fast that it would
not be worth it. They would claim "earthquake damage would make your
house sink" and all that fun stuff.

My area shows the best cooling at 6 feet down, which would be just as
easy as a 4 foot deep hole. I have been needing a good reason to kill
off that garden. Perhaps i could convince the wife that this is the
way? Could this be a concrete tank lined with EPDM rubber on all sides
and insulated on all sides except the bottom? I would think that a
tank shaped in a 10x10x6 foot size would be impossible to locate or
have made for that matter. If someone could make one, it would most
likely cost much  more that several concrete tanks. Would it make any
sense to make the top of this tank open for inspection and or cleaning
periodically? Just a thought.

M Russon


Posted by Pokee Joe on July 29, 2005, 2:59 pm
 



Life is so much simpler out in the country, in a county with a low
population. As long as I'm merely modifying an existing structure, no
permits or inspections are required.

regards,
Joe

Posted by David L. Jones on July 20, 2005, 10:45 am
 MRusson wrote:

I was just thinking about experimenting with something like this, kind
of like the forced air solar heater box I'm building now but buried in
the ground.
I was thinking of using aluminium tubes for good thermal transfer.
I did a little bit of searching on the subject and came away a bit
dissapointed in that it looked like you'd have to go at least several
meters underground to get the cool earth, ideally 5-10m.

I thought about sticking some temp data loggers at various depths in
the ground and seeing what's down there.

Dave :)


Posted by M Russon on July 20, 2005, 2:18 pm
 wrote:


Would this be a solar heater with a glazed enclosure?  


  I ran into the same problem here in Utah, since the best depth for
proper cooling was nearly 6 feet deep. My biggest concern is the
possibilty of bacterial and microbial growth inside the tubes. I
suppose  proper angle for drainage would be a huge help. That
condensation can be a killer if it starts producing mold spores and
such. Perhaps a system like the one Nick described before this post
has merit. I saw that the author was still active in promoting the
book Nick mentioned. I noticed the department of energy website said
that metallic tubes really didn't perform that much better over pvc or
poly tubes.

That would be some good info for all....



Posted by Anthony Matonak on July 20, 2005, 5:22 pm
 M Russon wrote:

Perhaps instead of air tubes you could install water pipes and
circulate water through the earth. Ground source heat pumps use
this method so it's likely someone in the area knows how to put
in these kind of pipes. Inside the home you could use some form
of heat exchanger such as they often use in commercial buildings.
You'll still have issues about possible microbial growth but it'll
be limited to the heat exchanger which should be easy enough to
clean.

Perhaps you could even go a step further. Add foam board insulation
along the sides and top of two areas which have these pipes buried.
and install swimming pool style solar heater panels. In the winter
or at night you can pump through one section to store "cold" and
in the summer or days you can pump through the other to store "hot".

Anthony

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