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poor performance and condensation - Page 4

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Posted by Morris Dovey on April 9, 2006, 12:21 am
 
SJC (in q1VZf.3867$WL4.528@trnddc07) said:

| The question is, how did the moisture get in there during
| shipping without a leak?

It might be something as simple as fabrication on a particularly humid
day.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto



Posted by SJC on April 9, 2006, 5:24 am
 
  I would agree and I would contact the manufacturer and ask about the =
seals.
I would imagine that the metal to metal keeps water out when it rains =
and that
is all they were concerned about. If any moisture from humidity got in, =
when the
collector warms up it vaporizes and escapes. If you measure your =
performance
and reference it to where you are and time of year, you may have been =
getting the
proper performance all along.



Posted by Tom on April 9, 2006, 5:42 am
 SJC wrote:

the

the

This is what really drives me a little crazy. When I reported to the
manufacturer what kind of numbers I was making their rep said without
question that it was underperforming. I am told anecdotally how this rep
has the same exact collector as mine on her roof in San Francisco at a
less attractive tilt and angle to the sun and her panel blows mine away.
Now she may be shining me on over overstating the benefits of the unit,
but I cannot get anyone there to say that 140 degrees is good or normal
or sufficient. All the feedback I get is that I am somehow screwing it
up or applying the product incorrectly and that I am responsible for the
condensation. Heck, if it takes another collector then I'll have it up
there.

One way or another I am going to prove to my wife that I am not crazy
and the sun will actually heat our water. Gentlemen, we cannot and must
not let my wife win or all is lost. For the sake of our collective
manhood, for the love of Mike, please help.

Posted by Tom on April 9, 2006, 5:31 am
 
Thanks, guys. And now, since ignorance is bliss, here is another
question. If I add another collector, say double my current capacity,
would I get an increase over the 140 degrees which is currently my
ceiling or do I just get a faster recovery time back to that
temperature? I'm absolutely incompetent at any form of math or I would
do the calculations myself. Sister Agnes, my algerbra teacher from high
school, is saying "I told you so."

I have a Honeywell tempering valve in my system but have not as of yet
had a reason to employ it.

Posted by SJC on April 9, 2006, 7:46 am
   By 140F, I assume that you want to get your 75 gallon tank up to that =
temperature.
Are you using a heat exchanger? A closed loop with antifreeze? Or =
direct?
If you look at the curves of that Sunearth, the efficiency goes down as =
the difference
between water and ambient go up. So let's say it is 44F air and you want =
140F, that is
a 96F difference and the collectors may only get 10% efficiency. If you =
wanted more
efficiency in colder air temperatures, you would have to lose less heat =
with a dual
pane glazing or evacuated tube collectors. Another Gobi would just give =
you more
warm water, not hotter. If you connected the two Gobis in series you =
might get hotter
water but less volume, because of the loss of efficiency.

1000 Btu/ft2/Day gets127 btu/ft2/Day with 90F difference.

http://www.sunearthinc.com/imperial.pdf



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